Scooter Maintenance for the Mosquito Hawk
Out How to Maintain your Gas Powered Scooter
tips, techniques and tools
your new gasscooter is important. Some things should done
every other time you fill the gas tank, other activities only need
to be done annually. If you have purchased your gas scooter
as a gift for your child, be sure he or she understands the
importance of caring for their new vehicle. Providing proper
maintenance is much cheaper than providing repairs. After
you are finished reading our other maintenance specific pages (Razorback
Maintenance Manual) check out our other two repair pages: Gas
Train Trouble Shooting
Gas Scooter Engine Problems
Still have questions? Write to us at firstname.lastname@example.org
The text that
follows is taken from the Mosquito Hawk Maintenance Manual.
The Mosquito Hawk
is the newest model in the Mosquito line, and is priced between the popular
Mosquito DX and the Mosquito Tiger. Featuring a 33 cc engine with plenty
of power and speed, the Mosquito Hawk is the scooter for those who want a
compact scooter with larger wheels at the best price.
handle bar folds like all the Mosquito
models and can be raised or lowered for
the comfort of the rider. The engine is mounted in the center for the best
balance and allows for better and safer turning.
The Hawk cruises at about 22-25 mph, and has
good power. The Mosquito Hawk is the same size as the Mosquito Tiger,
features the same board and frame design, except the Hawk is made of durable
steel, and an optional seat is available for all mosquito scooter models.
System...Chain, Frame......Steel, Engine.........33 cc
Tire........9.5", Board..19" Composite, Length...........40"
Height (folded)...14", Clearance..........5", Weight.........31
The Hawk is the best motor assisted scooter in
its class on the market, and should be properly maintained. You should care for
it like it is a motor vehicle not a toy. The following information will help you
know more about your Hawk and how to care for it.
Tires and Wheels
The Hawk utilizes cast wheels with 9 1/2" tires and pneumatic tubes. Both
tires and tubes are available from Hawk dealers
and from The Mosquito Company.
Keep them properly inflated.
The wheels are split cast steel and are held together by four 5mm Allen bolts
and nuts. An axle runs through the center of the wheel. The wheels are fastened
to the frame by the axel bolt and nut. The wheel bearings are kept in place with
spacers between the wheel and the frame.
Fixing a Flat or Changing a Tire
The front wheel is held on by 15mm axle bolt with a nut on one end. Loosen the
nut a 15mm box wrench or a high quality crescent wrench so you don’t strip the
nut. Remove the bolt making sure you don’t lose the spacers, and taking care
not to lose the bearings and the long spacer inside the wheel. Loosen and remove
each of the four 5mm Allen bolts holding the wheel together. Take off the tire
and tube. Check tire for thorns before putting in new or repaired tube. Put
together in reverse order. Do not over tighten the axel bolt and nut.
The rear wheel is a little more difficult. It is also held on by a15mm axle bolt
and nut. Loosen the nut and remove the axle taking care to not lose any washers
or spacers. They must go on in the same order you take them off. Loosen the
brake screw holding the brake onto the frame. Do not remove. Push the wheel
forward and take the chain off the sprocket. Your brake assembly will come off
with the wheel. Remove it from the wheel by taking off the nut attaching it to
the axle. Do not lose the bearings or spacers or chain adjusters. Loosen and
remove each of the four bolts just like the front wheel and change the tire. If
you use the same tire, check the inside for thorns before putting the tube back
in the tire. When reinstalling the rear wheel use the axle adjuster on the chain
to give the chain about ½ inch of slack. Also make sure the rear wheel is
straight and that both sprockets are in line before tightening.
Adjusting the Chains
Over time all chains stretch. To minimize this lubricate the chains regularly
with a high quality chain lube such as PJ1 Black Label. Periodically the chains
will have to be adjusted or changed. To adjust the large chain, loosen the axle
bolt and nut. Loosen the small brake screw on the left side of the frame.
Tighten the 10mm nut on the end of the chain adjusters to give about ½” of
slack in the chain. There is no master link in the chain, and taking out a link
will require a chain breaker, which can be purchased from most bicycle shops.
The stock chain is ½ x 1/8 BMX chain with 20 pins. If you run out of adjustment
you will need to replace the chain or take out one link and cut the brake screw
slot ½ inch longer. To adjust the small drive chain take off the chain cover on
the side of the engine by removing the 3 Phillips bolts. There are 3 5mm Allen
bolts behind the large sprocket and a nut at the end of the shaft on the other
side of the scooter frame. Loosen both and adjust small chain. Tighten securely.
The size of the small chain is #25.
Adjusting the Brake
The brake on the Hawk is either a band or drum type brake. A 10mm nut and bolt
hold the cable in place. To adjust the cable, loosen the bolt. Use vise grips or
pliers to hold the cable while you tighten the nut and bolt. You can also
tighten or loosen the brake cable at the brake lever. The brake cable has a cap
at the end. If it comes off your brake cable will fray. Buy a replacement at a
bike shop, cut the cable and pinch the cap onto the end of the cable.
Nuts and Bolts
Make sure that you inspect your Hawk regularly for loose nuts and/or bolts, and
tighten when needed. Vibration will cause nuts and bolts to loosen and even fall
out if you don’t take care to check and/or tighten each time you ride. While
your Hawk frame is very strong, do not jump your Hawk because other parts of the
Hawk can be damaged such as the engine housing, handlebar, carburetor, rims, and
fork. Keep in mind that damage caused by jumping your Hawk is not covered under
Gear System and Clutch
The Hawk utilizes a double chain drive. The small or primary chain is under the
chain guard on the side of the engine. The larger or secondary chain comes off
the drive shaft onto the wheel. Both chains require lubrication, but the primary
chain requires lubrication each time you ride your Hawk. Use PJ1 Black Label
The clutch is a centrifugal type located on the engine. It utilizes two clutch
shoes bolted onto the flywheel of the engine and is held in place by one spring.
To inspect the clutch shoes, you will need to remove the clutch housing assembly
from the engine by removing the four 5mm Allen bolts. The small primary sprocket
on the clutch housing assembly and the large primary sprocket (brass colored)
will wear if the chain if not lubricated properly.
The Hawk engine is a 33cc two-stroke Mitsubishi engine manufactured in Korea. It
requires a mixture of 2-cycle oil and gasoline. The mixture rate is 25:1. Use a
high quality 2-cycle oil, preferably synthetic or synthetic mix. This engine is
one of the best two-stroke engines made. Take good care of it and it will last
Carburetor and Gas Tank
The Hawk carburetor is a diaphragm carburetor with a primer bulb underneath the
carburetor, which needs to be primed when starting your engine. You should choke
the engine when first starting by raising the choke lever. When the Hawk is not
in use empty the gas tank. This will lengthen the life of the seals in the
There is a brass idle screw at the top of the carburetor. To increase the idle
turn the screw clockwise. If the idle is too high and cannot be adjusted, check
for a stuck throttle cable or adjust it for more free play. The lower screw
(black) is the air-fuel mixture. Adjust only as necessary. If your Hawk seems
sluggish when you first accelerate, turn the screw one full turn
counterclockwise, and then adjust 1/4 turn clockwise until there is no
hesitation when you accelerate. Factory setting is 31/2 turns counterclockwise.
CAUTION: IF THE AIR FUEL MIXTURE IS TOO RICH OR TOO LEAN, YOUR ENGINE CAN BE
Check the air filter often. Dust and dirt in your engine will ruin it. When it
is dirty replace it, or clean with solvent and coat with a few drops of motor
Spark Plug and Cylinder
It is very important to use properly mixed gasoline in the Hawk. Even a few
minutes of straight gas will permanently damage the piston and rings. If too
much oil is used the spark plug, engine ports and carburetor will be fouled.
Periodically check your spark plug. The tip of the plug should be light brown
and free of oil. If it needs to be replaced, remove it with a 19mm deep well
socket, and replace with the same type plug.
Two rings on the piston expand in the cylinder and provide the engine with
compression. These are wear items. Service life depends on several things: 1)
proper mixture of gas and oil, 2) clean air filter, 3) warming up the engine
before riding, 4) and hours of use. In general, pistons will provide several
hundred hours of use before performance is noticeably reduced. Low compression
is often evidenced by difficulty in starting the engine. It is always
recommended that engine work be performed by a trained professional.
The Hawk frame is made of durable steel, and it has been tested to withstand
severe stress. The only part of the Hawk frame that needs regular maintenance
(other than cleaning) is the front fork and handlebar.
The handle bar is a two piece system--the aluminum T-bar and the folding steel
clamp. The T-bar is held in place in the clamp by a quick release so you can
adjust the height of the T-bar to suit your preference. The T-bar also houses
the twist throttle, the brake lever, the kill switch and the handle grips.
The folding clamp is made of heavy gauge steel and is designed to hold the T-bar
securely in place and to fold when desired. The folding clamp has an adjustment
to make sure the clamp is not too tight and yet holds the handle securely in
place. The large black threaded pin can be moved up or down. It is held in place
by a Phillips screw. If your latch seems loose raise the black threaded pin, and
if the latch seems too tight, lower the black threaded pin. Make sure this screw
is properly adjusted. If too tight and you try and force it, you may break it.
The folding clamp also fits in the top of the fork and holds the T-bar from
moving in the fork. When the bar is folded a 6mm Allen head is exposed.
Periodically this must be tightened to keep the handlebar solid, and the
handlebar properly aligned.
The Hawk fork is held into the frame by a system of black locking washers and
large nut, bearings and bearing races, just like a bicycle. If your fork becomes
loose tighten these rings and nut. Tighten the lower circular washer until there
is a slight resistance when turning the fork. Then tighten the upper locking
rings and nut with a wrench. These fasteners do not tighten you T-Bar!
Kill Switch, Cables, Brake and Throttle Levers
The Hawk kill switch is a one-wire type and is grounded through the frame. It is
held in place under the front brake lever. It is possible that the kill switch
can unintentionally ground if the wire is frayed and touches the frame. If your
Hawk has no spark and will not start, check the kill switch by unhooking the
wire at the connector near the engine.
The Hawk brake lever is on the left side. The brake cable runs underneath the
frame and attaches to the rear brake. The cable has a free play adjustment on
the lever. Check periodically to make sure the cable is in place. The most
common wear point on the brake cable at the end of the cable. It will also wear
near the adjustment bolt on the brake. When adjusting the cable avoid splitting
or mashing the end. When the end starts to fray it is usually time for a new
cable, if it can’t be repaired as mentioned above.
The throttle lever is located on the right side of the T-bar. The throttle cable
has a free play adjuster on each end. Each is 8mm with a 10mm lock nut. When
twisting the throttle there should be just a small amount of play before the
engine goes above idle.
Like any other motorized vehicle, the Hawk requires regular maintenance. We
recommend that for every one (1) hour the Hawk is ridden, the customer should
spend at least five (5) minutes performing the following maintenance:
Tighten all nuts, bolts and other fasteners paying particular attention to the
engine bolts, muffler bolts (both on engine and on frame), chain cover bolts,
carburetor bolts and the 6mm Allen bolt holding the handle bar in the fork.
Oil both chains with PJ1 Black Label chain lube. Oil the small chain each time
Clean the scooter by wiping down with a damp cloth.
Check air pressure in tires.
Also it is recommended that the spark plug be checked after 15 hours of use. The
tip of the plug should be light brown and free of oil.
Check the oil filter often. Dust and dirt in the engine will ruin it. When it is
dirty replace it, or clean with solvent and coat with a few drops of motor oil.
You will appreciate your Hawk more if you understand it and know how it
functions. It is not complicated but does require some knowledge on your part,
and certainly requires your attention. It is worth it because you will extend
the life of your Hawk and will enjoy it for many many years.
try to answer all your questions in the
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