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Gas Scooter Maintenance for the Mosquito Hawk

Find Out How to Maintain your Gas Powered Scooter    

Pocketbike tips, techniques and tools


Maintaining your new gasscooter is important.  Some things should done every other time you fill the gas tank, other activities only need to be done annually.  If you have purchased your gas scooter as a gift for your child, be sure he or she understands the importance of caring for their new vehicle.  Providing proper maintenance is much cheaper than providing repairs.  After you are finished reading our other maintenance specific pages (Razorback Maintenance Manual) check out our other two repair pages: Gas Scooter Drive Train Trouble Shooting  and Diagnosing Gas Scooter Engine Problems

  Still have questions?  Write to us at info@gas-scooters-on-the-web.com .

The text that follows is taken from the Mosquito Hawk Maintenance Manual.

The Mosquito Hawk is the newest model in the Mosquito line, and is priced between the popular Mosquito DX and the Mosquito Tiger.  Featuring a 33 cc engine with plenty of power and speed, the Mosquito Hawk is the scooter for those who want a compact scooter with larger wheels at the best price. 

gas scooter, cheap gas scooters, fast scooters, gas scooter parts, www.gas-scooters-on-the-web.com, online gas scooters, gas powered scooter, pocket bike, snow scooterThe handle bar folds like all the Mosquito gas scooter models and can be raised or lowered for the comfort of the rider.  The engine is mounted in the center for the best balance and allows for better and safer turning.

The Hawk cruises at about 22-25 mph, and has good power.  The Mosquito Hawk is the same size as the Mosquito Tiger, features the same board and frame design, except the Hawk is made of durable steel, and an optional seat is available for all mosquito scooter models.  

gas scooter, cheap gas scooters, fast scooters, gas scooter parts, www.gas-scooters-on-the-web.com, online gas scooters, gas powered scooter, pocket bike, snow scooterDrive System...Chain, Frame......Steel, Engine.........33 cc
Tire........9.5", Board..19" Composite, Length...........40"
Height (folded)...14", Clearance..........5", Weight.........31 lbs.

The Hawk is the best motor assisted scooter in its class on the market, and should be properly maintained. You should care for it like it is a motor vehicle not a toy. The following information will help you know more about your Hawk and how to care for it. 

Tires and Wheels
The Hawk utilizes cast wheels with 9 1/2" tires and pneumatic tubes. Both tires and tubes are available from Hawk dealers (
Urban Scooters) and from The Mosquito Company. Keep them properly inflated.

The wheels are split cast steel and are held together by four 5mm Allen bolts and nuts. An axle runs through the center of the wheel. The wheels are fastened to the frame by the axel bolt and nut. The wheel bearings are kept in place with spacers between the wheel and the frame.

Fixing a Flat or Changing a Tire
The front wheel is held on by 15mm axle bolt with a nut on one end. Loosen the nut a 15mm box wrench or a high quality crescent wrench so you don’t strip the nut. Remove the bolt making sure you don’t lose the spacers, and taking care not to lose the bearings and the long spacer inside the wheel. Loosen and remove each of the four 5mm Allen bolts holding the wheel together. Take off the tire and tube. Check tire for thorns before putting in new or repaired tube. Put together in reverse order. Do not over tighten the axel bolt and nut.

The rear wheel is a little more difficult. It is also held on by a15mm axle bolt and nut. Loosen the nut and remove the axle taking care to not lose any washers or spacers. They must go on in the same order you take them off. Loosen the brake screw holding the brake onto the frame. Do not remove. Push the wheel forward and take the chain off the sprocket. Your brake assembly will come off with the wheel. Remove it from the wheel by taking off the nut attaching it to the axle. Do not lose the bearings or spacers or chain adjusters. Loosen and remove each of the four bolts just like the front wheel and change the tire. If you use the same tire, check the inside for thorns before putting the tube back in the tire. When reinstalling the rear wheel use the axle adjuster on the chain to give the chain about inch of slack. Also make sure the rear wheel is straight and that both sprockets are in line before tightening.

Adjusting the Chains
Over time all chains stretch. To minimize this lubricate the chains regularly with a high quality chain lube such as PJ1 Black Label. Periodically the chains will have to be adjusted or changed. To adjust the large chain, loosen the axle bolt and nut. Loosen the small brake screw on the left side of the frame. Tighten the 10mm nut on the end of the chain adjusters to give about ” of slack in the chain. There is no master link in the chain, and taking out a link will require a chain breaker, which can be purchased from most bicycle shops. The stock chain is x 1/8 BMX chain with 20 pins. If you run out of adjustment you will need to replace the chain or take out one link and cut the brake screw slot inch longer. To adjust the small drive chain take off the chain cover on the side of the engine by removing the 3 Phillips bolts. There are 3 5mm Allen bolts behind the large sprocket and a nut at the end of the shaft on the other side of the scooter frame. Loosen both and adjust small chain. Tighten securely. The size of the small chain is #25.

Adjusting the Brake
The brake on the Hawk is either a band or drum type brake. A 10mm nut and bolt hold the cable in place. To adjust the cable, loosen the bolt. Use vise grips or pliers to hold the cable while you tighten the nut and bolt. You can also tighten or loosen the brake cable at the brake lever. The brake cable has a cap at the end. If it comes off your brake cable will fray. Buy a replacement at a bike shop, cut the cable and pinch the cap onto the end of the cable.

Nuts and Bolts
Make sure that you inspect your Hawk regularly for loose nuts and/or bolts, and tighten when needed. Vibration will cause nuts and bolts to loosen and even fall out if you don’t take care to check and/or tighten each time you ride. While your Hawk frame is very strong, do not jump your Hawk because other parts of the Hawk can be damaged such as the engine housing, handlebar, carburetor, rims, and fork. Keep in mind that damage caused by jumping your Hawk is not covered under the warranty.

Gear System and Clutch
The Hawk utilizes a double chain drive. The small or primary chain is under the chain guard on the side of the engine. The larger or secondary chain comes off the drive shaft onto the wheel. Both chains require lubrication, but the primary chain requires lubrication each time you ride your Hawk. Use PJ1 Black Label chain lubricant.

The clutch is a centrifugal type located on the engine. It utilizes two clutch shoes bolted onto the flywheel of the engine and is held in place by one spring. To inspect the clutch shoes, you will need to remove the clutch housing assembly from the engine by removing the four 5mm Allen bolts. The small primary sprocket on the clutch housing assembly and the large primary sprocket (brass colored) will wear if the chain if not lubricated properly.

Hawk Engine
The Hawk engine is a 33cc two-stroke Mitsubishi engine manufactured in Korea. It requires a mixture of 2-cycle oil and gasoline. The mixture rate is 25:1. Use a high quality 2-cycle oil, preferably synthetic or synthetic mix. This engine is one of the best two-stroke engines made. Take good care of it and it will last for years.

Carburetor and Gas Tank
The Hawk carburetor is a diaphragm carburetor with a primer bulb underneath the carburetor, which needs to be primed when starting your engine. You should choke the engine when first starting by raising the choke lever. When the Hawk is not in use empty the gas tank. This will lengthen the life of the seals in the carburetor.

There is a brass idle screw at the top of the carburetor. To increase the idle turn the screw clockwise. If the idle is too high and cannot be adjusted, check for a stuck throttle cable or adjust it for more free play. The lower screw (black) is the air-fuel mixture. Adjust only as necessary. If your Hawk seems sluggish when you first accelerate, turn the screw one full turn counterclockwise, and then adjust 1/4 turn clockwise until there is no hesitation when you accelerate. Factory setting is 31/2 turns counterclockwise. CAUTION: IF THE AIR FUEL MIXTURE IS TOO RICH OR TOO LEAN, YOUR ENGINE CAN BE DAMAGE.

Check the air filter often. Dust and dirt in your engine will ruin it. When it is dirty replace it, or clean with solvent and coat with a few drops of motor oil.

Spark Plug and Cylinder
It is very important to use properly mixed gasoline in the Hawk. Even a few minutes of straight gas will permanently damage the piston and rings. If too much oil is used the spark plug, engine ports and carburetor will be fouled. Periodically check your spark plug. The tip of the plug should be light brown and free of oil. If it needs to be replaced, remove it with a 19mm deep well socket, and replace with the same type plug.

Two rings on the piston expand in the cylinder and provide the engine with compression. These are wear items. Service life depends on several things: 1) proper mixture of gas and oil, 2) clean air filter, 3) warming up the engine before riding, 4) and hours of use. In general, pistons will provide several hundred hours of use before performance is noticeably reduced. Low compression is often evidenced by difficulty in starting the engine. It is always recommended that engine work be performed by a trained professional.

Hawk Frame
The Hawk frame is made of durable steel, and it has been tested to withstand severe stress. The only part of the Hawk frame that needs regular maintenance (other than cleaning) is the front fork and handlebar.

The handle bar is a two piece system--the aluminum T-bar and the folding steel clamp. The T-bar is held in place in the clamp by a quick release so you can adjust the height of the T-bar to suit your preference. The T-bar also houses the twist throttle, the brake lever, the kill switch and the handle grips.

The folding clamp is made of heavy gauge steel and is designed to hold the T-bar securely in place and to fold when desired. The folding clamp has an adjustment to make sure the clamp is not too tight and yet holds the handle securely in place. The large black threaded pin can be moved up or down. It is held in place by a Phillips screw. If your latch seems loose raise the black threaded pin, and if the latch seems too tight, lower the black threaded pin. Make sure this screw is properly adjusted. If too tight and you try and force it, you may break it.

The folding clamp also fits in the top of the fork and holds the T-bar from moving in the fork. When the bar is folded a 6mm Allen head is exposed. Periodically this must be tightened to keep the handlebar solid, and the handlebar properly aligned.

The Hawk fork is held into the frame by a system of black locking washers and large nut, bearings and bearing races, just like a bicycle. If your fork becomes loose tighten these rings and nut. Tighten the lower circular washer until there is a slight resistance when turning the fork. Then tighten the upper locking rings and nut with a wrench. These fasteners do not tighten you T-Bar!

Kill Switch, Cables, Brake and Throttle Levers
The Hawk kill switch is a one-wire type and is grounded through the frame. It is held in place under the front brake lever. It is possible that the kill switch can unintentionally ground if the wire is frayed and touches the frame. If your Hawk has no spark and will not start, check the kill switch by unhooking the wire at the connector near the engine.

The Hawk brake lever is on the left side. The brake cable runs underneath the frame and attaches to the rear brake. The cable has a free play adjustment on the lever. Check periodically to make sure the cable is in place. The most common wear point on the brake cable at the end of the cable. It will also wear near the adjustment bolt on the brake. When adjusting the cable avoid splitting or mashing the end. When the end starts to fray it is usually time for a new cable, if it can’t be repaired as mentioned above.

The throttle lever is located on the right side of the T-bar. The throttle cable has a free play adjuster on each end. Each is 8mm with a 10mm lock nut. When twisting the throttle there should be just a small amount of play before the engine goes above idle.

Like any other motorized vehicle, the Hawk requires regular maintenance. We recommend that for every one (1) hour the Hawk is ridden, the customer should spend at least five (5) minutes performing the following maintenance:

Tighten all nuts, bolts and other fasteners paying particular attention to the engine bolts, muffler bolts (both on engine and on frame), chain cover bolts, carburetor bolts and the 6mm Allen bolt holding the handle bar in the fork.

Oil both chains with PJ1 Black Label chain lube. Oil the small chain each time your ride.

Clean the scooter by wiping down with a damp cloth.

Check air pressure in tires.

Also it is recommended that the spark plug be checked after 15 hours of use. The tip of the plug should be light brown and free of oil.

Check the oil filter often. Dust and dirt in the engine will ruin it. When it is dirty replace it, or clean with solvent and coat with a few drops of motor oil.

You will appreciate your Hawk more if you understand it and know how it functions. It is not complicated but does require some knowledge on your part, and certainly requires your attention. It is worth it because you will extend the life of your Hawk and will enjoy it for many many years.

  We try to answer all your questions in the articles above.  Still have a question?   Write to us at info@gas-scooters-on-the-web.com and we'll answer it. 




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